ABWF stewardship tour
A weekend of trail stewardship, including notating solitude stats and cleaning trails for the U.S. Forest Service, and conquering big vertical gains for the Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness Foundation thrilled my soul.
A tutorial on how to clear water bars along trails.
The Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness Foundation website describes this stewardship tour route along the West Fork Rock Creek as the following:
“At just over 16 miles in total hiking distance over four days, this is our shortest Stewardship Tour but it is certainly our most rugged, reaching over 11,700 feet above sea level. Throughout this tour, we will be recording social encounters data, clearing trees, cleaning water bars and campsites as encountered.
Combined with extensive boulder fields and exposure to the vagaries of fickle Beartooth weather, this one is for advanced backcountry travelers only. Situated along the West Fork of Rock Creek, Quinnebaugh Meadows is a gorgeous mountain meadow that is surrounded by spectacular views of the Silver Run Plateau, and the aptly-named Whitetail Peak. We'd be surprised if we don't see a moose along the way. The first day, we may wander up to the bridge below Sundance Pass clearing trees and water bars while inspecting fragile campsites near tree line. Our adventure will then take us off the system trails to Senal Lake and Dude Lake that are legendary for their monster-sized cutthroat and brook trout. Camping at Lake Mary provides a spectacular perch surrounded by a magical grove of the endangered white bark pine. The trip "over the top" to Snow Lake is entirely off trail and reaches in excess of 11,700 feet above sea level with summits to explore on the East Rosebud Plateau (weather permitting) before descending to Snow Lake. Here, under the glaciers gracing the north face of Mt Inabnit, you can try your luck with football shaped Rainbow Trout. Our last day finishes with one of the most notorious rock slides in the range below Yosemite-sized walls to descend to the East Rosebud Trail (aka The Beaten Path) few miles from the car. The Snow Lake segment may also be completed as an out and back from Lake Mary, depending on weather and the group.”
day one: West Fork TH → Quinnebaugh Meadows → Dude Lake
View from Quinnebaugh Meadows
An early (8:30am) start proved necessary despite the mere 6.5 mile day. The three of us (the guide, a high schooler from out of state, and I) met at the West Fork Trailhead to review procedures/the route/exchange trail maintenance gear and get to know each other before heading up the trail towards Quinnebaugh Meadows. The easy, straightforward route gave us ample breath to chat. We stopped infrequently to clear water bars and learn about lateral drainage.
Upon arrival to Quinnebaugh Meadows, we found a campsite where the guide pitched her tent so we could stow gear inside while continuing on to Dude Lake. This served to not only lighten our load but as protection from the impending rain storm. The area is notorious for afternoon thunderstorms every day during the month of July. And this day did not vary from that trend. Quickly, we hid our bear sacks and cannister then headed uphill.
A trail used to exist up to Senal and Dude lakes but was wiped out from a fire + mudslide + infrequent usage over the past decade. After bushwhacking and rock hopping for the better part of a mile, a burst of lightening warned us to take cover in the trees. We waited out hail, rain, thunder, and lightening for about an hour! Very exciting. Then, we finally crawled out from our perch and decided to finish the short climb we had left to ensure the campsite still existed and document whether anyone was there. No surprises: not another soul at either lake or along that route.
It was 6pm by the time we made it back down to our stowed gear. We decided to call it and stay at the Meadows for the night rather than hike the brutal mile up to Lake Mary. We rushed to make dinner and get into dry, warm clothes. Then, we tucked ourselves into our sleeping bags early to avoid mosquitos and rest up for a big following day.
This is where I highlight how much of a blubbering mess I was for this trip. Beginning with a 4:30am wake up bathroom visit for starting my period, I knew the possibility to be clumsy would make the weekend slightly more difficult. However, I didn’t expect to have gear failure for the first time ever. My stove kept throwing flames and I had to rely on heated water from the guide for my dinner (and eventually breakfast the following morning).
Odd, considering that I used that same fuel cannister and stove the weekend before. Upon recommendation, I took the fuel cannister to bed with me to warm it up and hope for the best for the next morn. Could it have been the rainy conditions causing the mishap? Eventually I learned that shaking it vigorously worked best and the stove finally worked properly when we got to Snow Lakes on the second evening.
Gifts from nature after a storm in the mountains.
Day Two: Lake Mary → Snow Lakes
A view from Grass Mountain in the Beartooths looking toward Whitetail Peak.
We attempted an early start again to pack up and get climbing. Although the mileage was minimal, the steep climbing + boulder hopping + route finding would mean slow meandering toward our destination. The steep mile up to Lake Mary included a few water bar clearings and checking in on campsites once we arrived. A quick snack and fill up on water then we continued on our way. By the time we hit the boulder fields the sun was high in the sky but not brutal and a soft breeze made the travel comfortable.
Angling up and across to skim the ridgeline, we traveled upwards with a view of the canyon unfolding below us captivating our hearts. We then skirted the remaining patches of snow and found a stream to eat lunch next to. Y’all, the views! Unreal. As if we stood on top of the world. We gawked a bit. Well truthfully, a lot a bit.
Once we crossed the plateau we were rewarded with more miraculous views looking down into the East Rosebud drainage. And the downward walking on squishy meadow eased our weary muscles for a solid mile. Then, the drainage we followed narrowed and steepened and became treacherous. Large steps down onto shaky boulders, sliding down loose scree, and stepping gently on wet stones crisscrossing the creek all required serious concentration.
I began sitting on rocks and delicately lowering myself down due to my distrust in whether boulders would roll out from underneath me. Taking off my boots and putting on my water shoes to walk down along the creek with more grip. When that didn’t work as well as I’d hoped, I switched back into boots and simply repeated a mantra internally for safety. Part of me worried for the reverse trek up out of this drainage the following morning. The other part wanted the easy two mile route out via the East Rosebud trailhead the next day.
Then, it happened. Fear unlocked. A rock slid out from under my boots and I free fell a la flying squirrel style, bounced my ribs off the cliff rock wall and landed on solid boots in the creek. Bewildered. Surprised. Shaken I couldn’t believe my fortune. My normal reaction would be to continue on without a body scan since all seemed to be in working order and I was standing upright. However, this time I acknowledged the need to sit and ensure I could breathe evenly.
I stated as much aloud. The dialogue running out of my mouth so fast that it was stream of consciousness, “Well, I’m talking so the wind wasn’t knocked out of me.” Switching to internal thoughts, my ribs don’t seem to be broken. Hmmm. That’s surprising. I wonder how bruised they will be tomorrow morn. Then I stood and gave a thumbs up to continue.
Lower Snow Lake
Arriving at lower Snow Lake we noticed lots of large piles of bear scat. Sticking tighter together through the brush we finally made it to the campsite. Feeling raindrops lightly tapping our shoulders, we quickly scattered to set up tents and hide. The storm passed quickly hardly wetting the meadow allowing us to emerge and explore a bit before prepping dinner.
Part of our duties included monitoring the campsite for thirty minutes and documenting whether we observed day hikers pass by or campers set up near by. We discussed how to document and other tasks we could be responsible for and how to perform them. We also reviewed my scare hiking down the slick rocks of the drainage. My luck didn’t go unannounced. Feeling enough hang time in the air to observe the large boulder falling a foot below me wasn’t something I ever expected to experience. I’m also grateful for not having to hike any broken ribs out that evening.
Mosquitos found us quickly and we knew it would be another early morn so we packed our smellies, hid them, and headed to our tents for some R&R. I always bring my Kindle to read myself to sleep and this early evening especially enjoyed the extra time to read. Do you take the extra weight for this activity on your hikes/backpacking treks? I can’t fall asleep without it!
Day Three: Hiking out
The return trip was just as awe inspiring as the first time experiencing the endless views from on top of the plateau.
Although Snow Lakes are a mere two miles from another trailhead, it’s a different trailhead from the one our cars are parked at and we must climb back up onto the plateau, across, and down into the canyon we first entered Friday morning. Again, not much mileage but a lot of elevation gain and lots of boulder hopping. I am especially slow when crossing boulder fields because I am cautious.
So, the early start proved helpful to finish by mid-afternoon. We all felt better about the climb up the drainage and made quick work getting above the sketchy section. A quick break before tackling more climbing and we soon found ourselves crossing the boulder fields. The route back somehow felt longer. Maybe because the views weren’t as fresh?
Either way, I surprised myself at not remembering an entire section before the climb back down. When we got to Lake Mary we took a long lunch break where I dipped my feet into the water. Then, we got to work breaking up illegal fire rings, cleaning up camps and chatting up whoever happened to be around. There were quite a few campers so we conversed with those that were around and acted as stewards to inform them why we were out there and what we were up to.
Duties completed, we hiked the steep mile of switchbacks down to Quinnebaugh Meadow hitting the main trail and hiked the 4.5 miles out rather quickly. The sun shining, few people passing by to chat with, and ignoring any trail maintenance we got back to our cars about 3:30pm. We debriefed over soda waters and celebrated all that we accomplished in three short days. Then, shared bittersweet goodbyes.
Upon returning to civilization I immediately sent Wolverine Whisperer a voice memo about not recommending this route for our own explorations later in the season. During our Yellowstone adventure the previous weekend, she had expressed jealousy as I informed her of the route. Thus, I promised we would go back to relive the glory together. Now over the phone though, I swore up and down to her that it wasn’t worth the time or anguish. With a few weeks between the hike and writing this, I have predictably changed my tune. Will we attempt the same route at the end of August?
Don’t worry, I’ll update you if we relive this trek together or whether we try bagging a different peak. Afterall, there are so many on our list and little precious time to get it done. Who knows, maybe we will summit White Tail Peak, which is visible on the furthest right of the picture below. Bets anyone?
Sprite in action frolicking along ridgelines.