solitude monitoring
I joined Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness Foundation for a weekend of solitude monitoring on a loop in the Beartooths. What is solitude monitoring, you ask? I’m glad you did! Let’s hike through the details and views together.
Campsite at the end of day #1: The pristine open area above Lower Aero Lake
According to ABWF’s site, “Solitude is a defining quality of Wilderness, and tracking it is critical for protecting the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness. Due to USFS funding and staff cuts, ABWF is stepping up to lead 14 three or four-day backpacking trips into iconic, breathtaking landscapes.” Of course, I wanted in on this opportunity to help out!
When choosing which session to join, I opted for a section of the Beartooths I had yet to explore along with what fit my schedule best of course. I landed on a trail out of Cooke City, which includes very well known sections, such as one of the routes to Granite Peak and a short section of The Beaten Path. Another exciting reason for joining this particular trek was the opportunity to orienteer, or find our way without a trail to guide us.
Lady of the Lake Trail
The beginning of the trail I chose to follow.
The Logistics
The Solitude Monitoring weekend I decided to join is described on the ABWF site with the words:
This adventure covers the northwest corner of the Beartooth Plateau, the single largest contiguous area over 9,000 feet in the Lower 48. Crowned by 12,000 foot peaks, including Montana's highest Granite Peak (12,802'), these are the headwaters of the mighty Clark's Fork River, designated a Wild & Scenic River in parts of Wyoming. Our tour spends most of the time above treeline passing nearly a dozen lakes including Bald Knob, Rough Lake, Fizzle Lake and the spectacular Lower & Upper Aero Lakes. Getting to the Plateau will involve multiple stream crossings. Once there, we can expect to navigate snow banks late in the summer while hopscotching across extensive boulder fields. Bring your water shoes and favorite fishing gear! (ABWF volunteer hub)
Seem obvious yet why I chose this particular option? Yeah, I figured you would understand. Also, I went to learn. I found it interesting to learn how the USFS (United States Forest Service) monitors wild spaces. Concepts like the logic used when determining whether to allow a fire ring obviously too close to a lake should remain in place so the location it should be placed within can remain in the process of re-wilding were discussed. Why disturb wilderness when an already well established spot exists?
Each monitoring segment requires four hours of observation, including conversing with and recording each encounter along the trail or around campsites. There were easy forms to fill out for this task. Some of the segments could be hiked in 30 minutes, so we used the time hanging around our campsite as observational time. Conversations were easier and less awkward than I imagined with many hikers willing to share their route and plans with us. Being an ambassador seemed intimidating but became enjoyable the further we travelled and the more we chatted together.
Learning occurred on the job with some paperwork to reference.
The Journey
Day 1 (end): Lower Aero Lake
The granite features and pristine blue of the backcountry lakes captured my heart all weekend.
Beginning from the Lady of the Lake trail, the three of us meandered through forest and skirted lakes to arrive at our climb of the day. A quick, intense push and there it was—Lower Aero Lake—in all its glory. The rocky trek around the lake to the grassy area on the far side where we set up camp brought Glacier Peak and Mount Villard into view. Throughout the day, the hikers that passed us were there for a Granite Peak summit bid weekend.
Despite our concerns for mountain goats to bother us, we slept safely through the night undisturbed. Although I did get up to pee (far away from the tents!) and enjoy the night sky. I was rewarded a small meteor from the Persied meteor shower.
Day 2 (start): Upper Aero Lake
Mount Villard in the distance
The end of day two graced us with a storm. Maybe nature thought we needed the extra rest? I attempted to read and breathe deeply and forget that we were staked to granite slabs next to a massive Bald Knob of more granite. The lightening streaks across the sky appeared eye level and unnervingly bright through the thin neon green of my tent nylon. Here’s where you repeat my motif, “I’m still aliiiive!”
What really stands out though from the second day was the opportunity to blaze our own trail in the Beartooths. And by blaze, I mean tread lightly so as not to even leave footprints! The drainage below Rough Lake and on the way to Fizzle Lake displayed wildflowers and open vista views. Carefully rock hopping around each lake allowed us more time to admire it all and let the mountain air fill our lungs. A leisurely pace felt good. What a sacred moment we shared!
No pictures of day three for you. I was too busy digging in huckleberry bushes and staining my face with the tasty treat. The day filled with continued conversations on the enormity of the universe and our luck at such a perfect weekend while we stumbled along our downhill descent to the trailhead. Each segment of this trek was diverse. Each one offering valuable experiences. Afterwards, we enjoyed lunch together in Cooke City and chatted about life before saying our farewells. A sweet ending to a shared magical weekend.
Although I didn’t take many pictures (only five - a new record!), choosing instead to enjoy conversations, hucks, and views, I relished every moment. Cheers to being lucky to attend a Solitude Monitoring weekend, getting to know Joe better and sharing an incredible weekend with a stranger from Texas! May I get to attend three treks next year and volunteer more time for ABWF functions in these upcoming seasons of life.